Basically, you start with a variety of animals and animal parts, and then it’s time to make a decision: Do I want them on the grill as yakitori, glazed with a brilliant sweet and spicy veneer, or would I prefer something battered and fried until crispy? If you can handle important quandaries such as this, then you are in for quite an experience at Kushiya, which is open until 2 a.m. Thursday through Sunday. Line up an obscenely cold bottle of Japanese beer with a sake back and go to work!
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